Choosing the right arrow and Tuning it?

[StevenB]

How complex should this be?

I've read alot of posts on choosing arrows and tuning the bow for them, and I find that it is a whole lot more complicated than when I was shooting recurve.

I did have the benefit that the limbs on my eolla where twisted pretty good, so tuning was really only a matter of setting nock point and center shot to give me a bare shaft slightly high and left/right (can't remeber where it should hit for a recurve) and this worked very well for me

and my arrow selection was always go to the stiffer arrow on the charts and use a heavy point, also worked well for me.

do people spend to much time trying to tune there bows?

[New Tricks]

Nocking point at zero. Centre shot at zero. 3 arrows through paper for a semi decent tear. Tighten everything down. Probably 15 minutes total. Don't ever touch again. Ever. Work on your brain for the rest of the time.

[Progen]

New Tricks, notice the word 'Eolla'? I think StevenB was talking more about recurves.

Going to have a lot of ruined Spinwings with a level nocking point. :cry:

[StevenB]

no both compound and recurve, just making the point that t seems to me that there are a lot of archers spending a lot of time tuning there gear, as well as selecting the right arrow.

What I'm trying to see is "if its worth the effort?"

I just gave the eolla as an example as with my compound so far it has been work with what I have got. (eg for 3D I've gone with a set of CXL selects and tried to keep the weight down, thus I haven't selected the best arrow for the bow)

[Normie]

Nup, pretty much what you said in your original post & what New Tricks said

set NP
set centreshot

shoot some longer distances in calm weather to visually check out arrow flight....

when I can hold steadier and release consistently then I'll worry about "finer" tuning of arrows (not there yet).... thats MHO :D

but each to their own :lol:

[Progen]

I didn't bother at first. Only started bothering me when I shot a lot at 70 metres and noticed the arrows wiggling inconsistently. Even gave them the benefit of the doubt by shooting each one a few times to see whether it'd end up in the same spot and it did! Only then did I know that's why they'd never group at long distances.

[New Tricks]

For anyone interested, I number my arrows 1-12 and have a different colour Vane/nock combo for each dozen (I have 3 doz on the run as we speak). I just write the number on the cock fletch so I can see it prior to shooting for some immediate feedback. I will take the dozen and shoot them at 50 yards 4 arrows at a time and note where they impact. I will keep shooting each one until I have what feels like a perfect shot with the dot in the same place as impact. When you are on fire, you can even use the fliers for a decent result.

For a bit of a war story, I used to hold the Australian Mens Compound Indoor records (all of them) in the early 90s. I actually shot the scores with 3 arrows on a single spot face as 3 spots were not allowed yet. The arrows were 2312s and were beaten up very badly from lots of abuse in the single spot game. When I shot the biggest scores, I had just the 3 arrows and no spares and no spare nocks. How I got through that day I do not know.

I had written on them where to aim each one. I had one that would hit where I aimed it, 1 I had to aim high right on the 9/8 line (this one had the nock taper half shot off it and the nock sat at a wierd angle) and the other at 6 oclock in the mid 9. I had l69 on the low 6 oclock 9, HRR for the 9/8 (high right red) and M (for middle). I found these arrows just 2 years ago in a tube full of old arrows. Took them to the tip though. Would be good to shoot them now and see how I went. Hah, people still give me **** about them. Character building archery that was.