Shooting problems :/

[SneakyArab]

Ok I went to wal-mart and got some cheapo arrows (I just shoot for fun, not for competition or hunting, so I dont feel the need to spend a lot of money on high quality arrows) and started shooting my bow again after a few years.

This is what happens when I shoot. I THINK I flinch to the left every time I release the bow string, just because I am bracing my arm against pulling the string back and when I let go, there is nothing to brace so my arm moves forward and to the left a bit. Therefore all my shots are going to the left.

Also, when I shoot the arrows are not going straight on, but are fishtailing. They sway in the back from side to side and hit the target at odd angles and such. I suppose you know what I am talking about; but if not then here is a picture from martinarchery.com
http://www.martinarchery.com/o_manual/2004manual/pics/fishtail.gif

At first I was trying to use the sights on my bow...then I looked down the shaft of the arrow for a shot and was much more accurate (though I still flinch :( ) so I think I am going to just remove the sights from the bow.


Anyways, I just need help on how to fix the flinching (I donno what to do to stop myself) and the fishtailing thing. I guess this is the right place on the forum to post it?

[Jason.P]

It looks like you arrows are to weak for your bow causing them to move as they do.

What pound bow do you have?
whats your draw length?
What spine are the arrows?

Also read this
http://www.archery-forum.com/showthread.php?t=11259

[SneakyArab]

There are no archery clubs near me. Small town.

The poundage on the bow is between 30-40 (There is a post about this is the tuning section) but I dont know because I did the things myself (and I would say maybe thats part of the problem, but I remember it doing the same thing before)

I dont think that it is because the arrows are too weak because I used to have this bow at I think 20# (before I adjusted it) and the arrows (OK ones from a hunting shop that closed down) couldnt possibly be that weak.

The draw length is roughly 2 feet. It is probably a bit more than that. I am using a youth bow.

I dont know that much about archery, so I dont know how to determine spine. The arrows are Easton Stalkers. I looked at the Easton site and it just said "With the best technology and blah blah best spine around blah blah"

[Jason.P]

It could be arrow rest is set to far to the left.
when you look from behind the string does your arrow line up with your stabiliser or is it off on an angle.

[Sandy Hancock]

More questions first I'm afraid.
What sort of bow is it (I'm guessing recurve)?
Am I correct in assuming you are drawing / releasing with fingers?
If they are Easton arrows they will have something written on the shaft which will tell you the spine - either a three or four digit number - what is that number?
How long are the arrow shafts?
How long is your draw length?
What poundage is your bow at that draw length?

I know some of these questions have already been asked, but the answers need to be reasonably accurate for us to give you any meaningful advice. Wal Mart would probably have a weighing scale in the fishing section which you could adapt to measure draw weight. A tape measure you can get anywhere.

[SneakyArab]

It is a PSE Spyder youth bow (compound)

Yes I am drawing with my fingers (3 fingers. index above and middle/ring fingers below the arrow)

The only number on the arrow is 2117.

The arrows are 30" and the draw length is about 2 feet

The poundage is between 30-40 pounds.


It doesnt look like the arrow stablizer is off at all....

and any advice about the flinching mentioned in the first post?

[Archangel]

I suspect Wal-Mart are pretty clueless when it comes to archery, and the arrows don't match your poundage/draw length. 'About 2 feet' is nothing like precise enough to pick a matched arrow, which is what you're going to need if you want them to fly properly.

Either bite the bullet and get some decent equipment from a dealer that knows what they're talking about, or accept that they're not going to perform very well.
Oh, and get some coaching from your local archery club, that will help you far more than equipment will :-)

[elvanbowman]

Hi Sneaky ,

Sandy, jason P and archangel are pretty on the money and these guys do know heaps about the sport so they are giving good advice for free!!! :cool:

The only other thing I could suggest is one of the junior girls in my club had a flinching problem and her coach got her to go back to basic draw then ease down instead of release until she got the natural feel back at full draw and anchor. He then got her to close her eyes at release starting at 10 meters (about 11 yards) and work her way back ( I think this was to stop peaking that can effect the follow through of a bow or crossbow). She shoots national and Trans Tasman so it helped her out. It is also possible that you are peeking at release too ( as you discribe watching the arrow intently and when you tip or shaft sight this is a little harder to peek on - it is not as bad). So this may help a bit too.

If you follow what the other guys suggest you cant really go wrong, but these things Ive mentioned may help out too. Good luck and Happy shooting:smile:

[Sandy Hancock]

It is a PSE Spyder youth bow (compound)
Yes I am drawing with my fingers (3 fingers. index above and middle/ring fingers below the arrow)
The only number on the arrow is 2117.
The arrows are 30" and the draw length is about 2 feet
The poundage is between 30-40 pounds.

2117 aluminium arrows are about 450 spine, which is probably a fair bit too stiff for your setup as far as I can guess. More accurate information is needed to get anywhere with this.

I suspect your flinching may well be the main problem though. Is there any chance of posting a video of your shooting form??

[SneakyArab]

Ok Once again there arent any archery clubs or shops nearby.

Elvan I think that I AM peeking a bit after I shoot.


Ok the draw length is precisely 24" (there isnt any way I can raise that without getting a new bow, is there?)


I donno if I can do a video or not :o

[elvanbowman]

Hi Sneaky,:smile:

Alot of compunds these days have adjustable draw lenghs through the use of modules that attach into the cams that modify the cam rotation profile that will effect how far the string can be drawn to full draw as the cam rolls. Not too sure about the PSE range as some may while others may not. I know that Mathews bows are generally set up drawlength specific and require cam change out for any more than 1/2 inch adjust on their solocam set ups whilst Martin have modules for changing drawlengths.:cool:

Drawlengths can also be tweaked by twisting stings up to shorten the sting ( I think this increases drawlength-not totally sure-:confused: but puts cams into an earlier rotation) but I would suggest that this could be more trouble than its worth if you dont know what your doing, so look for modules or cams instead to vary the drawlength. You could also try a different string length but this is likely to effect draw pondage due to variation in the cable setting that provides mechanical advantage or leverage in combination with the cam(pulley) set up. The recurve guys at my club are always stirring the compounders about changing this or that so there is a fair bit of tinkering to get a bow set up just right and if you change one thing that envariably leads to an effect on another.

Below are some helpful links to try out for more specific info on your bow and its set up. You may have to order some stuff online or take a bus due to your location.:-)

http://www.pse-archery.com/

http://www.pse-archery.com/img/support/PSEUserGuide.pdf

http://www.huntersfriend.com/2005_PSE_Bows/pse-spyder-s4-bow.htm

As for peeking try closing your eyes just after release( you should have non dominent eye closed already although some peopole shoot both eyes open) so shouldnt be to hard to get used to.
Hope this helps LVNBMN:smile:

[Sandy Hancock]

As for peeking try closing your eyes just after release (you should have non dominent eye closed already although some peopole shoot both eyes open) so shouldnt be to hard to get used to.

I'd say you've got that arse-up, Elvanbowman. Unless you are forcing yourself to use the non-dominant eye, shooting with both eyes open is generally considered preferable.

Train yourself to keep your eye fixed on the gold until the arrow hits. If you've shot it properly you shouldn't have to look anywhere else;)

By the way, shouldn't it be "Elven"? (nerd alert:-D )

[elvanbowman]

Hi all,
Sandy you have got me confused sort of:confused: . In my last post I thought I suggested that you would already have dominant eye open and non dominent closed. Maybe i was a bit dislexick on the keyboard. Anyhow keeping sighted on gold works well. I merely suggested that Sneaky try something that worked for one of our juniors reasonably well.:cool:

Looking back at sneaky's report of 24'' draw and a thirty inch arrow, even with 2117 stiffness those arrows seem too long for the draw and the problem could be exagerated if the tip weight doesnt allow steerage as well at those poundages.

Sneaky can you tell us all how far foward of half way(15 inches) the arrow is balancing?

As for Elven, the avatars name was spelt as Elvanbowman when I saved it hence the user name. You probably right though, but I like it this way.:smile:

[Archangel]

Sneaky can you tell us all how far foward of half way(15 inches) the arrow is balancing?
FOC doesn't have a thing to do with determining the correct arrow length. IMO it's not a particularly important measurement full stop anyway.

I'm not a fan of the closing eyes after release thing - you're still reacting artificially to the release, which isn't how I'd like to shoot.

[elvanbowman]

Fair call. :smile:

[Brocky]

I'm with Archie & Sandy not a good idea. Keep looking at the target, keep your arm up and pose after the arrow hits the target for 2-3 seconds even longer. Longer the better.