nocking point or rest?

[Vic]

I shot the new triples today and I am very pleased with them. Sadly, the arrows did not fly well due to everything being 'out'. They fly in a corkscrew fashion which means that nothing is in the right place. What do I play with first? The rest or the nocking point?

Vic

[Ozzy]

What nocks are you using ?
The Cartel nocks are a strange fit with that "keyhole"
I don't trust that "sliding" down the string, so am using machined down G nocks with success on Triple 500's.

[Jay Bowden]

How do you machine down a G-nock? I've had a little play with this idea myself, they are so close to fitting it's not funny. Wasn't sure about shaft protection by just having a G-nock in the back, but after using Bieter nocks anything would offer more protection.

[spot]

Vic
Have you tried bare shaft test and paper test

Spot

[Ozzy]

We South Ausies are rather experimental, as there is amember of our club ( Adelade AC) who lathes them down .Obviously they need checking for possible bends from the heat, but I find the grouping/paper test etc. good.

[mike]

I use a small file to narrow the necks of the g-nocks for my 500s, don't know if you can do the same for other spines. Works fine for me, but its a pain in the arse to do. I wouldn't use the cartel nocks as they are WAY too tight on the string.

I've found that you don't have to be all that precise from nock to nock, as long as you try to keep it even and are carefull then they work fine. I agree that heat damage would be a problem in a lathe.


REturning to the topic Vic!!

You probably need to do paper test to go any further, but as a starting point, put the nock about 1/8 inch above the height of the rest (you will need a bow square for this). Just have the rest about level with the holes in the side of the riser -- seems to work on most bows.

For the left/right, look at your bow from behind (perhaps lean it against something), and (this is hard to explain, but I'll try) line up the bow string with its track on the bottom and top cams (idle wheel for single cam). The rest should be visible directly behind the string when looked at like this, if not move the rest left or right until it is. That is in fact the so called "centershot" of your bow, but note that being in "centershot" does not neccesarily mean the bow is well tuned for a given arrow.

with the above done, the tune of the bow shouldn't be too bad, beleive it or not, and from there it comes down to fine tuning for a given arrow (which means shooting through paper etc etc. I usually do the up down bit first then the left right, aiming for a tear that is vertical - no left or right - and where the fletches go through the paper about 1 - 1.5 cm above the point a couple of meters from the paper)

Hope this helps...

[Vic]

Thanks for that. I have got the bow to the paper tuning stage but couldn't be bothered setting up something in the carport. I was just cheating when I posted the question! I guess I should use up all that cardboard I have in the spare room instead of getting you blokes to do all the hard work for me!

And that says a lot for this forum. I have probably shot around 150 arrows since returning to archery and today, armed with new strings, cables, new carbon arrows and no sight settings, managed to shoot (what would have been on a 122cm) 8,9,10 with my first three shots at sixty metres.

It wasn't luck or skill, it was all the tuning I was able to do at home with information gathered here. Next weekend I intend to shoot a FITA and then we'll see how good you lot really are! If I fail miserably, at least I can blame someone else. :lol:

Again, thanks

Vic