cybertec vs nitro

[james]

Hi eveyone
Iam new to this forum, i just turned in my nitro and ordered a new
cybertec with the command cams. the nitro had a problem with the
cable not lining up with the stop groove and it would give you a snap
in the string coming to full draw, the cable would actually line up on the outside of the cam groove and then jump into the groove, very annoying,
pse just gave me the
run around for months so i finally had enough and gave it back to the
dealer for a refund. turns out many are having the same problem with the
nitro. anyhow the cybertec is one awseome bow to shoot, i wish i would have went with hoyt in the first place, i guess some just have to learn the
hard way.


james

[Marcus]

I think you'll love your CyberTec. I've shot one with the dual track idler and one with command cams and they are both really nice bows. The CyberTec with CC's is owned by Eberbachl on this board and it's one of the fastest bows I've ever seen. He shoots it well too :) Despite the short brace height it seems very accurate. Also super light. I think you'll like it alot.

[Eberbachl]

Hi James,

Welcome to the forum, and I'm sorry to hear about your trouble with the Nitro.

It's a shame I think that some of the PSE's are having these sorts of problems out of the box. I've just got back from the club after helping a member make two cables for his and his partner's brand new Quantums. Their bows had huge thick cables and were cutting on the cam module shredding the serving really quickly.

This is a shame, because otherwise the quantum is not a bad package, and although I haven't shot a Nitro, I have eyed them and thought they looked like they had potential for a 3D bow.

Having said that, I promise, you wont be dissapointed with your CyberTec!

I've got a fade red CyberTec, XT2000 and command cams, my wife, Hayley has the same bow except fade blue.

Mine's doing 307fps with ACE 520's at 60lbs and is really accurate for a speed bow. Very low vibration and recoil due to the I-beam, and lovely to shoot unmarked for field. I'll happily admit that I'd more readily shoot the AccuTec for pure target, but if field is you're thing I think you're on a winner:) The CyberTec has already smashed some of my field scores with the Stratus Plus, and AccuTec's that I was shooting.

Good Luck!

Luke. :lol:

[james]

I found the nitro a really nice bow to shoot, but this problem with the cable
alignment sucked, even with the cable guard turned to the point of having
fletch contact didnt help, couldnt shim the cam either there was no room.
the dealer put on new limbs as they were cut a little different at the fork
but that actually made it worse. when i bought this bow the cybertec was
my other choice. my biggest decicion was which cam to go with, i tried
the versa cam which was a far smoother draw than the ultimate one cam
on the nitro. after trying the command cams, that sold me right away, the
only concern i had was tuning, but i here that is not a issue.


james

[Eberbachl]

Are you referring specifically to getting the timing right on the command cams james when you suggest you're a little concerned about the tuning of them???

[james]

ya!
the timing how often do you find that you need to set the timing, and
exactly how is it done??
I' am not that familiar with 2 cam systems.
what weight arrow are you using, thats impressive speed ?
I will also be shooting at 60 lbs.
I was using goldtip hunter 5575 28" 75g tips at 364grains at 60lbs
shooting 270fps with the nitro, my draw length is around 28".



james

[Eberbachl]

Hi James,

The cam timing on compound bows is a much misunderstood concept. Of course it is critical that the two cams turn over in perfect unison, but this is not hard to acheive, and the concept that this must be done periodically is simply wrong as long as you are using a string making material for your cable that is reasonably up-to-date.

Firstly, your new bow should be timed pretty much well out of the box to start shooting a few arrows, and my recommendation would be to shoot maybe 200-300 arrows before worrying about timing too much. Of course if it's way off you should fix it, but it shouldn't be too bad. This 200-300 arrow break in period will allow your cables and string to "bed-in" and any minimal stretch that is going to happen with materials such as d75, BCY450, Ultracm etc will happen within this period.

Once this has occured, you should have a friend assist you and watch you draw your bow to see if the cams come over at the same point. You can relate the cam modules and pegs etc against the limbs to see if this is happening. If a cam is coming over before the other one, put your bow in a press, and give the cable one twist or even half a twist at a time until the cams are in unison.

Once you have done this, many say (and I think it's a good idea, but I haven't done it yet) that you should do the creep tune procedure to fine tune your timing.

The creep tune procedure means that you draw a horizontal line accross the target, and shoot afew arrows from the wall at full draw. Then shoot a few arrows at the beginning of the "valley". If your timing is out the arrow will impact high or low, then you twist a cable (only very small amounts, remember this is fine tuning) untill the "valley" arrows hit the same mark as the "wall" arrows.

Once this has been done, and your string is fully bedded in, your timing will stay good until you make changes to your cables etc in the bow press. Dont be put off by this, it is a simple procedure, and only needs to be done when you make changes to your bow. It will probably take less time for you tio do as it took for me to type this :D

I hope this helps!

As far as my arrow speed goes, yep....it's fast :lol: I have made some tweaking of my bow, I make all of my own cables and string etc and I reduce the weight of my string (14 strand Ultracam) and lower the brace height a little. (my brace height is 6 1/2 " which is Hoyts "textbook" brace height for the CyberTec, but 1 inch lowwer than the facory set up was on my bow).There is also a school of thought (I have proved this with my bow and a cronograph) that a small amount of weight on each end of your string (I use two brass nocking points, heatshrinked, about 1 1/2" inches below each cam) will give you an increase in arrow speed by a few FPS... also, keep the weight of things like d-loops, nocking points, kissers etc etc etc in the center of your string to a minimum. Other than that, my arrows are ACE 520's, g-nocks, 80gn points.

Cheers,

...and good luck! :D

[Marcus]

That was an excellent post Luke. Perhaps we should take some photos of what to look for when matching wheels on Command Cams.

[Eberbachl]

Thanks Marcus,

next time we are down at the club, we can bring cameras and take some shots......would be good to post visual info.

I'll be down tonight, probably Friday night, and Saturday and sunday :)

[james]

Thanks for the info, cant wait to get the new bow.

James

[Eberbachl]

No problemo James,

Good luck with the new bow!

If you need any more help, just post.......

Cheers,,

Luke. :D

[James Park]

Yes, nice post Luke.
It is extremely important to get the cam timing correct, especially if you pull into the wall. Otherwise, with twin wheel or cam bows you can get significant height variation on the target.