Tuning a recurve bow

[James Park]

From the many queries I get on tuning a recurve bow:
(Covered in more detail in "Mastering Bow Tuning", as is tuning a compound bow).
Assumptions:
- The bow's physical length is about correct for your draw length.
- Adjustable limb alignment.
- Adjustable draw weight.
- Arrows of a size that will work.
- The arrows are about level with the back of the riser when at full draw.
- You have a sight and a clicker.
- You have a good bowhand position and are not twisting the riser.

If your arrows are the correct size, the following process is easy, fast, accurate and repeatable.

Steps:
- Select the correct string length. This should ensure that the correct amount of string is sitting around the recurve on each limb. It is best to use the manufacturer's recommended brace height.
- Set the tiller. Make the top tiller about 1/8" greater than the bottom tiller.
- Align the limbs. You need to end up with the string running centrally down the limbs and the riser, and for the riser not to be twisted off to one side.
- Set the pressure button so that there is zero movement (I put a match in it). Then adjust the centreshot so that the arrow is sitting exactly on centre.
- Shoot some fletched and some unfletched arrows at about 15-20M. Adjust the nocking point so that the fletched and unfletched arrows hit at the same height.
- Adjust the bow's draw weight so that the fletched and unfletched arrows hit the same place horizontally. Note that if the arrows are not the correct size, this step will not be possible, and there will be little you can do to fix it (sell the arrows and buy new ones - with a recurve bow you really do need to get the exact correct size, one size wrong will not tune correctly even with much frustrating tinkering). If the bow draw weight will not go high enough you can try a lighter string. If the bow draw weight will not go low enough you can try a heavier string.
- Still with the solid pressure button, adjust your sight so that you are grouping around the centre of the target.
- Now, do not change the sight setting. Take the match out of the pressure button and adjust the spring tension to "something nice".
- Now that you have some give in the spring, you will need to push the arrow out a little from true centreshot, so adjust the pressure button position.
- Shoot some arrows and see where the centre of the group is. If the arrows are to the left then move the pressure button to the right, and vice versa.
- Shoot some fletched arrows at a longer distance and check that they seem to be flying well.
- Powder test to ensure that the rear of the arrow is not striking the rest or pressure button.
- It should now be working pretty well.

Note that we are not fiddling with the spring tension to try to get the fletched and unfletched arrows to group together. It does not work like that. The key adjustment is changing the bow's draw weight.

Note that we tune a barebow recurve in essentially an identical manner (using a sight and a clicker).

Note that we tune a compound bow shot with fingers in an identical manner.

[Marcus]

I tuned up Jessica Walters bow using Jim's method over xmas and she stepped out with it fresh and shot a 324 at 50m on a small face.
I have tuned a number of recurves using this method and the traditional hit-miss method and Jim's is faster and alway produces great arrow flight and good groups.

[gt]

The US coach Dick Tone (of Cavalier) has used and publicized this method for more than 30 years. With all due respect to Jim, I don't think it's exactly news.

(It seems a lot of people have published this in various places without giving any credit to Dick.)

[James Park]

gt,
Yes, agreed, same as used by Dick Tone (and important to note his contribution, as you say).
(I also used it back in the early 1970's, having thought back then about the physics of what happens to the arrow).

[TJ Mason]

I can certainly vouch for this method. It gets the bow matched properly to the arrows, and builds in a good deal of

[Sandy Hancock]

Originally Posted by James Park

- Shoot some arrows and see where the centre of the group is. If the arrows are to the left then move the pressure button to the right, and vice versa.

Just to clarify Jim: are you saying to adjust the centreshot (ie move the static resting position of the button) or adjust the spring tension (ie the "dynamic centreshot")? The quote above suggests the former, but I suspect you meant the latter....

[James Park]

Sandy, I meant the former, that is: adjust the position of the pressure button.
You could also adjust the spring tension, but I think adjusting the position is easier and faster. It also avoids problems of sometimes having archers end up with very weak spring tensions and the button bottoming out.

[Sandy Hancock]

Originally Posted by James Park

Sandy, I meant the former, that is: adjust the position of the pressure button.
You could also adjust the spring tension, but I think adjusting the position is easier and faster. It also avoids problems of sometimes having archers end up with very weak spring tensions and the button bottoming out.

So if you then powder tested and found contact, would you suggest changing the spring tension and then readjusting the centreshot to bring the group back to the gold?

[James Park]

Sandy,
Yes.
Assuming you have an arrow that is appropriately matched to the bow, contact is most likely to be around the arrow's rear node (about 150mm from the nock, or thereabouts). The rear node does pass very close to the rest and button, and contact there is the most difficult one to deal with.
If it is contact with the fletches and everything else seems ok, I would try rotating the nock a little.

[redline350]

I have a question some say for a 68in bow that you should have it 6in shorter that the bow others 3in. Could some one help me to confirm the theory so I can order a new string.

[Progen]

Originally Posted by redline350

I have a question some say for a 68in bow that you should have it 6in shorter that the bow others 3in. Could some one help me to confirm the theory so I can order a new string.

No one can give you a definite answer unless you supply your limbs and riser combination and their lengths at least. Basic rule of thumb from some sources say 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches shorter than the bow height / length. However, that also depends on the type of string material you're going to order. If say, you're going to order something that will creep and creep and creep and also has some stretch in the bargain, like Angel ASB Dyneema, then you would only go for perhaps 2 to 3 inches maximum. The guy who makes my strings from this material makes my strings at 64 1/2 inches.

[James Park]

As I remember it, a 68" bow is defined as a bow requiring a 65" string.

[redline350]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for that information, at times you ask archery shops you can get more confused and then end up with the wriong thing. I thought I would do some research and try for myself, so I have paid for will try this saturday.
redline350

[Betty-Anne]

Originally Posted by redline350

Hi Guys,

Thanks for that information, at times you ask archery shops you can get more confused and then end up with the wriong thing. I thought I would do some research and try for myself, so I have paid for will try this saturday.
redline350

You should talk to Apexrob (Mr Bling Strings) His strings are spot on!

[GrahameA]

Redline

Have you considered making your own strings??

[Betty-Anne]

Originally Posted by GrahameA

Redline

Have you considered making your own strings??

Back in the OLD days when we used Kevlar for strings and said strings were excellent but only lasted for about 1000 arrows, we were all really good at making strings. But these days I figure that there's not a lot of point when strings last a long time and there's someone out there who can make really good strings for a very reasonable price.

[StevenB]

Originally Posted by Betty-Anne

Back in the OLD days when we used Kevlar for strings and said strings were excellent but only lasted for about 1000 arrows, we were all really good at making strings. But these days I figure that there's not a lot of point when strings last a long time and there's someone out there who can make really good strings for a very reasonable price.

sure its nice and easy to buy strings, but it is still a skill worth learning. Especially if you have the time to make them yourself save a little money

[Win for won]

Originally Posted by James Park

- Powder test to ensure that the rear of the arrow is not striking the rest or pressure button.

Whats a powder test?

[Progen]

Originally Posted by Win for won

Whats a powder test?

Where you sprinkle some form of powder around the arrow shelf / cutaway area to see whether your fletches clear the rest / riser cleanly. Streaks in the powder usually indicate clearance problems. What kind of powder you use is up to your personal preference. Angel dust has often brought good results.

ps. Most folks use talcum powder.

[James Park]

For a powder test, I wet the back 1/3 of the arrow on the side that passes by the rest/launcher and sprinkle powder on it (tap the arrow up and down on a piece of paper with some talc on it). Then shoot the arrow and see if any of the powder has marks in it.
(There are some pictures in "Mastering Bow Tuning").